I have found that lately it is difficult to find nice, correct, period dresses out at re-reenactments.   Many of you are now resorting to making your own dresses.  It can be gratifying to finish your own dress.  It is doubly so when one compliments you on it.  So when the subject of sewing came up for an article, I decided to write one for beginners.  I often forget how difficult it was to learn  all the things for dress making.  And I had quite a patient mother to help me out.  It really isn't hard when you get the hang of it.  I started out with straight seems.  Making pillows, pillow cases, and stitching around blanket edges;  this is good practice to begin with.
    I am going to start at the beginning and walk you through the shopping and basic assembling process.
    The very first thing you will need to do is measure your bust (with brazier on), natural waist, and hips.  To create an accurate measurement, have someone help you.  Be sure that you measure yourself with only undergarments on.  Do not pull the tape measure too tight or leave it too loose.  A good way to tell if it is the perfect tension is to hold it where the two sides meet around you.  If it stays up without cutting in, it's perfect.
    The next step is shopping for your choice of pattern.  Patterns are sold at sutlers, (advertisements for the catalogs are in Camp Chase Gazette and Citizens' Companion) and sometimes in regular fabric stores.  Be sure to have your measurements with you when shopping.  Patterns hardly ever go according to store sizing.  Each pattern will have a sizing chart on it, either on the front, back or on the instructions.  When ordering patterns, they will also have a sizing chart in the catalog.
    The patterns will also tell you how much material you will need and in what widths.  Material widths will be in inches,  usually 36, 45, 48, 53, & 60.  There are other widths that are less common.  To find the width of a particular material in a store;  look on the end of the bolt.  It will usually be directly on the end with a tag or sticker.  Along with the width, it will also have washing requirements, the blend of the fabric ( example:  60% cotton/40% polyester), and the price per yard.  A yard of fabric is always 36 inches in length.  When buying material for a pattern, it's a good idea to buy a yard extra.  It's a little insurance in case of shrinkage, a slip of the scissors, or other mistakes.  Mistakes are made even by professionals, don't let it discourage or upset you.  This extra material can be used later for a matching purse, accents on hats, in a quilt, or as trim on another dress.
    Patterns will also have a list of notions you will need.  Notions are thread, buttons, ribbon, etc.  There will always be a notion section in the fabric stores.  Buying the thread and buttons at the same time as the material is always a good idea to ensure that you get the correct shade you desire.  Thread should virtually disappear on the material.
    Before you cut out-  If the material is washable, wash and dry material before cutting.  Some material (especially 100% cotton) can shrink when washed and dried.  While the material is in the wash; remove the instructions from the pattern and read carefully.  In case of a term or instruction you don't understand, it is helpful to call a friend who sews.  If this is not possible, look for a sewing instruction book.  These will be available in most fabric stores.  It also helps to have an extensive dictionary handy just in case.  Now that you have read through the instructions, washed and dried the fabric, it may need ironing.  Be sure to have the pattern pieces cut out before laying fabric out.
    Lay fabric out according to the pattern.  Pin pattern pieces as shown and begin cutting.  To keep pins from going dull, cover fine steel wool with fabric to create a pin cushion.  This will keep pins sharp and prevents snagging of material.  Pin pieces together and start sewing.  Be sure to remove pins before they reach the needle of your machine.  The pins are only to keep the material from slipping, if you sew over the pins it could ruin you material, machine, or both.  Sew pattern according to directions on the pattern.
    Buttonholes-  Most sewing machines will have a buttonhole attachment and instructions to use it.  The pattern should come with buttonhole placement guide.  After making the buttonholes you will need to open them.  Slitting them with an exacto knife (carefully) is better than scissors.  Scissors can be too big and cut through the stitching of the buttonholes.  Now pin the two opening on top of each other, making sure it's flat.  By using tailor chalk or pencil, mark in the center of each buttonhole.  When you remove the pins, the marks will show you exactly where to place the buttons.  This ensures that the material will  not pucker between the buttons.  Sew buttons with the thread doubled ( or with clear dental floss) this will ensure security of the buttons and prevents the loss of a button at a re-enactment.  With a boughten blouse or one already finished, dot thread on button with clear fingernail polish it will hold longer.
    Finishing touches include hand stitching the inside of the waistband, cuffs, and collar of the shirt.  To stitch closed, turn in selvage (the rare edge) and hand stitch it closed will small even stitches.  If you stick your needle in a white soap such as ivory, it will slip through the material easier.
    I hope this helps you start your sewing endeavors.
    Fredricka
    fredrickaz@earthlink.net