Now that you've lined up living quarters, acquired the appropriate tack and weaponry, it's time to start your search for an adequate cavalry mount.

If we lived in a perfect world, a current cavalry member would be leaving the hobby and dispersing his clothing (which would be our size), selling his mount-tack and all-along with all his weaponry at a price that is affordable to you.  Since we do not live in a perfect world, the hunt for a prospective mount begins.

In most cases, a gelding is an easier horse to deal with in camp.  Usually he is more amenable to his neighbors on the picket line.  That is not to say that you must never consider a mare for your mount but you may have to be prepared to picket her by herself and put up with less than ladylike antics when she is in heat.

We have had the most luck with Tennessee Walking Horses.  We have seen all breeds on the field.  Cow horses that have been trained to stand while a bull whip has been used would have a heads up on the noise of your pistol or carbine.

Make certain that the horse is capable of handling your weight and build.  This is a strenuous sport not unlike polo and requires that your mount be healthy and sturdy as much will be required of it during the hour you are on the field.

Run your hands down the horse's legs feeling for any bone splints, wind puffs or tendon damage.  The legs need to be clean with the proper slope to the pastern (the area between the ankle-fetlock-and the hoof).  Horses with straighter pasterns tend to have a more choppy, less fluid gait and are rougher to ride.  The slope of the shoulder and that of the pastern should be the same.  Not much can be done to change this.  If you try to over-compensate by changing the angle of the hoof, you can stress the tendons and ligaments in the horse's legs.   Ask if the horse requires any type of corrective shoeing.  Strong bones and well formed hooves are about the most important part of your horse.

If anything about the horse is questionable and you aren't sure, perhaps ask a competent horse person to accompany you so that they can answer any questions you may have.

The horse needs to stand squarely with its legs pretty much a leg on each corner.  A horse that is camped out meaning that its legs are a little behind the rump in the rear or the front under itself is not desirable as the horse will be unable to keep itself centered and balanced when asked to maneuver on the field.  It will have to work much harder than a horse that is conformationally correct.

The eyes should be clear and the horse should be attentive to all that is going on around it but not nervous or jittery when approached.

The age of the horse should be between five and fifteen years old.  Unless you are very good with younger horses, it is hard to train a very green animal to do this.  Unless the horse is extremely fit, it is harder on an older horse and the horse is more likely to break down under the vigorous exercise.

Any horse you go to view should be capable of doing the following:

    1.  Allows itself to be tied or cross-tied and be willing to stand there somewhat behaved for an extended period of time.  No horse should be considered who "sits down" or "freaks out" when tied, cross-tied, or ridden with a tie down.  This is very dangerous to the horse, any horses that would be picketed on the same line with it and any humans unfortunate enough to be in the same vicinity as the horse who is now upset and totally out of control.
    2.  Stand quietly while you saddle and bridle it.  There should be no slicked back ears or biting when the girth is tightened gradually and snugly.  A crupper is an item that should be used on the battlefield.  It helps to hold the saddle in place as does the breastcollar.  Be careful when attempting to place this on a strange horse the first time.  It can be a very startling experience for the horse and be prepared for cow-kicking, bucking and the like.  Be sure to ask the current owner if anything of this nature has ever been used on the horse before.  It is something that your horse can be taught to accept but one needs to be honest so that nobody gets hurt in the saddling process.
    3.  Will stand quietly while other horses, sometimes strange ones, are very close to it.  Aggressive horses are dangerous to the other riders and their mounts.  Serious injury can occur from a well-placed kick or bite.  You will be required to ride boot to boot in formation, as well as nose to tail in single file.  Your horse needs to be comfortable with this.  When engaged in saber battle, your horse will be required to respond to your commands and not attempt to shy away or become aggressive with the other animals/riders.

Once you have ridden the horse and are comfortable with its response to your commands; with the owner's permission, if there is a roundpen available, shoot a pistol with a small load to see how the horse handles the gunfire.

If you feel that a particular horse is the right one, a veterinarian's pre-purchase exam will be a well-spent investment.  The current owner should be more than willing.  If there are any reservations on his/her part, then there is something they have to hide and the horse should no longer be considered for purchase.

With patience and time, you will be able to achieve success with your horse.  Take the training process with your horse slowly and you will reap the benefits.  Training with another trooper with a veteran horse will go a long way towards training your horse to accept all these strange and new situations.