THE 1860's
LADY
By Fredricka Zimmerman
Ever since they were created, there has
been pro's
and con's for the corset. The garment that gives you the waist
you
know you should have been born with. Doctor's were against the
use
of corsets. In extreme cases, the use of corsets caused ladies to
have their organs displaced and even death occurred. In milder
medical
incidents, ladies would pass out or faint.
Much debate over corsets took place
in
Godeys. One such comment in Godeys is particularly amusing.
Lady Mary Wortley Montague wrote, "One of the highest entertainments in
Turkey is having you go to their baths. When I was first
introduced
to one, the lady of the house came to undress me- another high
compliment
they pay to strangers. After she slipped off my gown and saw my
stays,
she was very much struck by the sight of them and cried out to the
ladies
in the bath, 'Come hither, and see how cruelly the poor English ladies
are used by their husbands. You need not boast, indeed, of the
superior
liberties allowed you when they lock you up thus in a box!'"
Whether corsets were pros or cons,
they
were part of the 1860's ladies wardrobe. Corsets were made with
flexible
steel stays and in some cases were still made of whalebone. The
whalebone
prevented much movement although it did provide a smaller look.
The
corset design for the 1860's was similar to that in the later part of
the
prior decade. The corset was designed short, to lie just across
the
breasts with enough room to hold the bust, but not to flatten. An
hour glass shape to provide the small waist, the corset would flare at
the bottom and extend approximately three inches below the natural
waist
line. The corset was boned on seems, darts, and in between to
create
an all around slender look. Gussets were added to the late 1850's
design for more room in the bust area. The corset hooked in the
front
with lacing in the back for the adjustments.
There in no denying that the corset
gives
us the waist we all wish we had. Many references to waists,
especially
by young fashionable ladies, was that they had 18 inch waists; which
was
the most desirable size. To achieve the small waist, you would
have
an assistant to help you lace. After hooking the corset, the
young
lady would grab hold of a sturdy piece of furniture slightly bent
over.
The lacer would put a knee or foot on the lower back and pull.
The
lady being laced would 'suck in' the stomach as the laces were
tightened.
Corsets were considered 'unclean'
because
of the inability to wash them effectively. For this reason a
chemise
or slip would be worn under to protect from perspiration. A fitted
corset
cover or camisole would be worn overtop to protect against dirt.
Whether corsets were a pro or a con,
I
for one am certainly glad this fashion went out of style.
This article, its photos and all the
information contained herein are copyrighted
and may not be reproduced in any form without
written permission of the editor and its authors.
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