THE 1860's LADY
By Fredricka Zimmerman

Ever since they were created, there has been pro's and con's for the corset.  The garment that gives you the waist you know you should have been born with.  Doctor's were against the use of corsets.  In extreme cases, the use of corsets caused ladies to have their organs displaced and even death occurred.  In milder medical incidents, ladies would pass out or faint.
  Much debate over corsets took place in Godeys.  One such comment in Godeys is particularly amusing.  Lady Mary Wortley Montague wrote, "One of the highest entertainments in Turkey is having you go to their baths.  When I was first introduced to one, the lady of the house came to undress me- another high compliment they pay to strangers.  After she slipped off my gown and saw my stays, she was very much struck by the sight of them and cried out to the ladies in the bath, 'Come hither, and see how cruelly the poor English ladies are used by their husbands.  You need not boast, indeed, of the superior liberties allowed you when they lock you up thus in a box!'"
  Whether corsets were pros or cons, they were part of the 1860's ladies wardrobe.  Corsets were made with flexible steel stays and in some cases were still made of whalebone.  The whalebone prevented much movement although it did provide a smaller look.  The corset design for the 1860's was similar to that in the later part of the prior decade.  The corset was designed short, to lie just across the breasts with enough room to hold the bust, but not to flatten.  An hour glass shape to provide the small waist, the corset would flare at the bottom and extend approximately three inches below the natural waist line.  The corset was boned on seems, darts, and in between to create an all around slender look.  Gussets were added to the late 1850's design for more room in the bust area.  The corset hooked in the front with lacing in the back for the adjustments.
  There in no denying that the corset gives us the waist we all wish we had.  Many references to waists, especially by young fashionable ladies, was that they had 18 inch waists; which was the most desirable size.  To achieve the small waist, you would have an assistant to help you lace.  After hooking the corset, the young lady would grab hold of a sturdy piece of furniture slightly bent over.  The lacer would put a knee or foot on the lower back and pull.  The lady being laced would 'suck in' the stomach as the laces were tightened.
  Corsets were considered 'unclean' because of the inability to wash them effectively.  For this reason a chemise or slip would be worn under to protect from perspiration. A fitted corset cover or camisole would be worn overtop to protect against dirt.
  Whether corsets were a pro or a con, I for one am certainly glad this fashion went out of style.

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