Now that I have touched base on the outward appearance, let me focus on the underpinnings and choices of material for your impressions.

The foundation is a knee length chemise or slip with short sleeves, pantaloons were next (period correct pantaloons would have an opening between the legs).  They would have come about 3 inches below the knees.  Stockings were of a thin knitted cotton or wool; wealthier ladies would have worn silk.  The stockings would be held in place with garters just above the knees.

Next comes the most unpleasant task, the corset.  An approximate waist size was on an average of 15-18 inches.  Only the most fashionable of women strove for the 15 inch waist.   Of course, no one expects us to be that correct in our impressions!  A fitted cotton camisole would have went over the corset.  Corset's were considered unsanitary because of the difficulty of keeping them clean; so the chemise and camisole acted as a barrier from dirt and perspiration.

Then the flexible steel cage or 'crinoline' would create the shape of the famous bell skirts.  Petticoats would have been put on top of the cage and one underneath.  Anywhere from 2-8 petticoats would be put on over the cage depending on the dress.  Finally you would get to don your dress!

The basic material for the underclothes was cotton, a white muslin.  The petticoats had just as much detail, if not more, than the skirts.  The pantaloons usually were more plain with only one ruffle of lace or a series of tucks at the bottom of the leg.

Popular colors for the dresses were browns, blues, light purples, grays, greens, and of course black.  Reds and dark pinks were usually only for dinner and ball dresses.

Day dresses would be of cotton, wool, batiste (a light cotton) or silk, velvet for the wealthier ladies.  Ball gowns would be of crepe, satin, taffeta (was very popular), brocades, chenille, velvet and silk.  Also popular were sheer material such as organza for inset's of shirts and detachable sleeves for summer and ball gowns were also adorned in with the sheer material.  Calico was for work dresses.  Calico was considered a manly material but women started using it for their work dresses because it was cheaper.  Flowered material for women had a more set pattern to it.  Large print, flowered material was more for the wealthy ladies for you needed to use more material to match up the pattern at the seems.  This created waste of material, so therefore was not practical for ladies of lesser means.  Plaids were very big; they arrived in the decades before the war from Scotland and Ireland and were a huge success in America. Gingham is a nice choice, (checks were for men) and stripes were popular also.  Day dresses would not have had lace on them.  Lace was for dinner and ball gowns.  Day dresses would have had cording, ruffles or a definite pleated trim, ribbon, or embroidery.  Also dresses could be trimmed with a flowered fabric (if on a plain dress) towards the bottom of the skirt and partially on the blouse to tie into the skirt.

I do hope this helps in your decisions at the sutlers or fabric stores.             Fredricka Zimmerman