With the approach of summer also comes the memorial season.  With many memorials or remembrances of soldiers long gone, I thought it would be the perfect time to write about mourning outfits.  Although a set standard of mourning clothes was not started until the 1880's;  there was still a respectful tone in the way one dresses for such an occasion.

A proper mourning outfit is deep black from head to toe.  For a full mourning outfit, no skin is to be shown;  this would be for husband, a parent, or a child.  Full mourning is very considerate to the family members at the memorials and they appreciate it.  If one does not have a mourning outfit in their wardrobe, a solid dark color would also be appropriate;  pastel flowered dresses on the other hand are not, which I personally have seen at the memorials.

Full mourning was to be worn in the first year after death.  The dress would have been conservative with no frills.  No jewelry was to be worn except a mourning pin; usually woven out of the loved ones hair, or a lock of hair would be in a broach with glass over it revealing the lock, most commonly black stone jewelry would be worn.  Wedding rings of course would be worn and could be moved to the middle finger of the left hand for the loss of a husband.

People have asked me about the underpinnings; if they were to be black as well.  I have only seen one instance were there was a black petticoat but it is not to say that all the underpinnings were black.  As underpinnings are not to be shown to the world it is up to your discretion if you want the expense of all black underpinnings.  No one but your husband should see those anyhow.

When in public for the first year which was seldom, black gloves and a black crepe veil was to be worn.  The gloves should slightly over lap the cuff of your sleeves.  The veil should be a perfect square.  I have found 36" by 36" a nice size (if you are 5'8" or taller you may want a larger square).  The veil should be out of black crepe (heavy chiffon) with black ribbon lining the edges.  Lace was not used much during the Civil War for it was too expensive.  The veil should be turned to a diamond shape to go over your head with points in the front, the back, and just below each shoulder.  The hat, whether a bonnet or a brim hat, or a small hat with just the crown and no brim; should be kept very simple with perhaps a black ribbon or about a yard of black material draping off the back of the hat.  Keep it simple and sweet.

The shirt of the mourning outfit should be fitted and can have fitted sleeves (not blousy) or pagoda sleeves with black undersleeves.  The undersleeves can be out of the same material as the veil.  Just keep in mind that all skin must be covered for full mourning.  The shirt may have a simple flat collar or a small stand up collar like that of the Garabaldi shirt.

The skirt can be cartridge, directional, or a box pleat.  My favorite is the box pleat for mourning.  It is a clean slimming line.  The skirt is also to be all the way to the floor for modesty, only the top of your shoes would show when walking.  Remember it is out of respect for the dead that you dress this way.

If you are portraying a widow of a recent dearly departed soldier, please dress in full mourning.  If portraying a widow after the first year, you can incorporate dark colors such as purples, maroon, burgundy, greens, and may even incorporate gray.  This is a rule of thumb for the widows over the age of 30 who would have been married a while.  Young widows after the first year, can incorporate black and white checks.  Both can also use white collars, cuffs, and white handkerchiefs with black on it.  I have seen a handkerchief with a ribbon of black around it about one inch from the edge.  Yes full mourning means even the handkerchief was black.

Ladies in mourning would not have went to teas, quilting bees, or even church socials and definitely no balls or dances;  home, marketplace, and church were the only activities a proper lady would attend in the first year.  Any visiting to be done the friends and family would have had to come to her home.

I hope this helps with the memorials sweeping upon us.  Please remember respect, modesty, and demeanor these are not socials they are memorials; a solemn event to honor those who served our country.  Whether North or South both deserve our utmost respect.

                                                                                                Fredricka

  For questions or suggestions    fredrickaz@earthlink.net